Day Trip to Leaf Peeping in the Catskills

By the time you read this October article, the calendar would have marked the official arrival of fall, the temperatures may be a bit cooler, the days a bit shorter – and Mother Nature is waiting in the wings to take center stage, adorned in her annual autumnal blaze of color.  For those who relish the seasonal spectator sport known as “leaf peeping,” a perfect day trip awaits in the nearby Catskill Mountains.

An easy drive from New York City and the surrounding suburbs, the Catskills span from the Hudson River Valley west into central New York State, covering four counties and expanding, at some point, into northeastern Pennsylvania to meet the Poconos. The 4,000-square-mile area boasts 98 mountain peaks of over 3,000 feet, five major rivers, wild forests, crystal lakes, verdant valleys, fascinating wildlife, and majestic waterfalls. And at this time of year, the landscape is exploding in a riot of color, boasting gorgeous shades of red, orange, gold, and yellow.

The Catskill region’s history is as colorful as its wooded fall scenery, having provided the backdrop for everything from Washington Irving’s tale of “Rip Van Winkle” to the Hudson River School of Painting’s mid-19^th century American art movement, from the once-booming resort life of the Borscht Belt to the milestone musical mayhem of Woodstock. Tri-state area baby boomers who have nostalgic memories of childhood summers in the Catskills may be surprised to see how much has changed – and how much has remained the same. Today, day-trippers and vacationers enjoy a year-round bounty of activities that include hiking and biking trails, camping sites, winter and summer sports, boating, fishing, museums, antiques, historic sites, wineries, festivals, and much more. 

With the vibrant hues of the leaves reaching their peak in October, perhaps the best way for autumn visitors to take in the picturesque surroundings is by taking a leisurely driving tour. One such route is the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway along New York State Route 97, following the western borders of Orange, Sullivan, and Delaware Counties along a 70-mile stretch of the Delaware River. With the rafting and bluestone village of Hancock, in Delaware County, at the northern end and the railroad city of Port Jervis, in Orange County, at the southern end, the scenic route offers the chance to explore country eateries, art galleries, museums, theaters, antique shops, and old-fashioned general stores all along the way. Vegetable stands groan under the weight of fresh local produce, and apple orchards beckon guests to come and pick their own, perhaps while savoring some just-squeezed apple cider. Visit www.upperdelawarescenicbyway.org for a wonderful interactive map to follow and hints on things to do en route. 

Another Catskill route to map out is Route 28, going from Kingston to Cooperstown and offering stunning views in hamlets like Andes, which overlooks the Catskill Forest Preserve, located within the confines of the 700,000-acre Catskill Park. And if you find yourself driving along Route 23 in East Windham, be sure to pull off at Point Lookout, situated beside the Point Lookout Mountain Inn – which is a lovely landmark destination in its own rights. On clear days, visitors can take in panoramic views of five states from that spot.

Speaking of lovely structures, fans of historic covered bridges have a number to choose from in Sullivan County alone, including those in Willowemoc (built in 1860, two miles west of town), Beaverkill (1865, in Beaverkill State Campground), and Livingston Manor (1860, just north of town). What better place to stop and spend some tranquil moments on a spectacular autumn afternoon?  

Of course, it’s usually much easier to admire the views when you don’t have to worry about keeping your eyes on the road at the same time. The Catskill Mountain Railroad Scenic Train offers the ideal solution, with a 12-mile roundtrip between Phoenicia and Cold Brook station (Boiceville) allowing passengers to sit back and relax for a marvelous 90-minute railroad excursion. Fall Foliage Specials, which run from October 1 through 31, give a unique perspective that can’t be experienced by car, whether it’s from the comfortable seating of their vintage coaches or their open cars in the fresh mountain air. Find out how to climb aboard at www.catskillmtrailroad.com.

Another inviting way to travel the area is by river. Fall foliage cruises abound, from the Circle Line’s daylong wine-tasting voyage up the Hudson River to West Point, departing from New York City (www.circlelinedowntown.com) to SeaStreak’s  Hudson River Fall Foliage Cruise with a hot lunch buffet, leaving right here from Highlands (www.seastreak.com). Plenty of other short and long sightseeing cruises are available up and down the river, taking off from various ports such as Newburgh, Cornwall-on-Hudson, Kingston, and Hudson, offering an assortment of amenities or some stops along the way.

With the Catskills covering such a vast region, the possibilities for places to go and how to get there are all over the map, both literally and figuratively. To learn more about this sampling of suggestions and to explore yet more options, go to www.visitthecatskills.com.    

Happy peeping!